Procedure:

1. Turn off the red power toggle switch on the side of the electrical enclosure.
2. Disconnect AC input power connector to the Electrical Enclosure.
3. Remove all screws holding the cover of the electrical enclosure and remove the cover. Leave the emergency stop connector connected and move the cover to the side.
4. Remove all connections on the right side of the electronic enclosure to the motor control board. (Upper Board ).
5. Remove the two Phillips head screws securing the motor control board trey.
6. Re connect the AC power input connector to the side of the electrical enclosure.
7. Turn the red power toggle switch back to the on position. Pivot the motor control board tray up to expose the machine control board leaving all cables from the top board to the lower machine control board connected.

Locate the D 9 LED and note if it is lit or flashing. If it is not lit or flashing, the machine control board has failed and must be replaced.

Tools Needed:
Phillips screwdriver #2
11/32” Nut driver
1/16” thick or 1/8” thick two-way foam tape

To fix this you will need to follow the below steps. I suggest to take a picture of how the wiring is routed before disassembly.

1. Remove the 14 Phillips head screws mounting the top cover onto the GUI main body (Both sides and front) and place the cover to one side.

2. Mark the two black and white connectors for the Inverter with a permanent marker and remove. The marks are to associate the tops of the connectors.

Note: These two black and white connectors can be installed in either connector on the board, so marking them for position is mandatory.

3. Mark the top of the brown connector on the left hand side of the Inverter with a permanent marker and remove.

4. Unplug the black display cable, and the grey 1” wide video ribbon cable from the small video board in the lower left hand side.

5. Remove the GUI keypad ribbon cable. This cable has a locking tab that needs to be depressed to separate them.

6. Lay the GUI cover to the side and remove the three 11/32” nuts that are holding the mid plate cover onto the lower GUI base.

7. Once the mid plate cover is off, you will see the grey ribbon cable that you have disconnected earlier from the top area is connected to the bottom board in the back. This 'Viper board' as it is called, is the Motherboard. Notice in the below picture that there is no double sided tape and the Ferrite core is loose.

8. The ferrite core is connected to the video cable. There are times the core has come loose or has not been connected to the rear wall of the GUI to secure it. It should be secured to the back wall like in the picture below.

Note: You may find the video cable connection off of the Viper board. Reconnect this cable to the Viper board.

9. Secure this Ferrite core so that it will not put weight on the video cable you will need a 1” x 1” x 1/8” thick double sided adhesive foam strip to install on the Ferrite core.

10. Mount it to the back wall keeping the cable as loose as possible.

11. Install everything back in the reverse order. You may need to check the mid plate to see if there is a small piece of foam tape in the right hand corner of the slot for the video cable. If this foam strip is not there please add a piece to this corner so that the video cable does not rub against the mid plate in that corner. This could cause the cable to short and loss of video also. 

Note: When re-installing the mid plate be sure that the cable routing is correct, the cables have certain areas to route and will need to go into the same spot.

Note: When installing the cover make sure the keyboard ribbon cable is not hanging outside the cover, this may cause the cover to pinch the ribbon cable and fail the keyboard. It likes to squirt out the side.

12. Install the screws and power up the GUI.

This procedure is to help learn how to backup the patterns that have been created and saved, as well as copy over the settings installed into the GUI. This procedure should be done every time a pattern or a setting has been changed in the Graphic User Interface. This is to ensure that a customer can load his pattern and settings information into a new GUI if a exchange GUI is required.

1. Make sure the Graphic User Interface (GUI) is at the operator’s screen. (see Figure #1)

Figure #1 

2. Insert Thumb Drive (Flash Drive) into the USB port on the left hand side of the GUI. (see Figure #2)

Note: Make sure you use an empty Thumb Drive / Flash Drive with no folders or files on it. Leaving other lane machine 'Backup' folders on a thumb drive may cause inadvertent installation of another centers lane machines settings.

Figure #2 

3. The Import Data / Export Data screen will appear. Default is Export Data Press the green Okay to proceed to the next screen. (see Figure #3)

Figure #3

4. Now you are at the Export Data screen, press the green Okay button one more time. (see Figure #4)

Figure #4

5. You will see this screen for a few seconds, the words will be missing but it is okay(see Figure #5), then the Import Data / Export Data screen the words come back. At this time, you can remove the Flash Drive / Thumb Drive from the GUI. This part is now done.

Figure #5

Note: There is now a backup of patterns from the #1 bank, if you have more custom patterns in any of the other 4 banks #2 thru #5, you must select those banks when the Import Data / Export Data screen reappears, then selecting Export Data and choosing the next Backup number that has your patterns in it. You will have just one folder on the thumb drive called backup but all the patterns for each back number will be saved into this folder.

It is suggested to make a backup of you patterns on a regular basis and storing it on your personal computer in case they are erased.

Finding and Sending the “backup” files in email.

1. Insert your Thumb Drive / Flash Drive into your personal computer. Open your drive and look for a folder called backup. This folder should contain 19 files.

This procedure will help with troubleshooting the Authority22 Traction Drive Motor in the event that the motor will not run or the motor does not drive the machine correctly up or down the lane during operation. The Authority22 may also display an Encoder Sensor Error if the machine is not traveling down the lane at the correct speed.

The Authority22 Drive Motor is a DC motor and is rated at 90 VDC. The voltage to this motor is generated from the conversion of 115 or 230 VAC to DC voltages to run the motor. To accomplish this, AC voltage from the Motor Control Board is applied to the Regenerative Drive. It is then converted to DC voltages to allow the Traction Drive Motor to run in the correct direction and speed up and down during operation on the lane. Refer to Figure 1.

By taking voltage measurements at the Traction Drive Motor Connector, Regenerative Drive, Motor Control and Machine Control PCB the user can determine which part will need replacement.

Tools Required:

• Digital Voltage Meter that is able to measure AC and DC Voltages.
• Phillips Screwdriver #6 

1. Checking Traction Motor for Operation.

• Using the Graphical User Interface, (GUI) Keypad, navigate to Maintenance > Diagnostics > Drive. Refer to Figure 2.

• Using the GUI Keypad, select “OK” to run the Drive Motor Forward and Reverse. If the motor fails to run in either direction, check these items:

A. Looking from the T handle side, check the Traction Drive Motor Connection on the left hand side of the electrical enclosure. Check and make sure the connection is good and there are no wire pulled out of frayed. Follow the cable to the motor looking for pinched or cut wiring.

B. Check the fuse on the Motor Control PCB at location F16 inside the Electrical Enclosure. You will need a #6 Phillips head screw to remove the six screws from the top cover. Leave the cover connected to the emergency stop. This fuse is a 4.0 amp slow blow fuse 5mm x 20mm part # 14-860-214-000. If this fuse is not blown move to step #2 “Checking Drive Motor Resistance”.

Note: When checking the fuse, refer to the following Warning.

WARNING!!!

Disconnect Power by moving the red toggle switch located on the side of the electrical enclosure to the down position and unplug the main power cord to the Authority22. Remove the GUI and set the GUI aside until the electrical cover can be removed. Remove the 6 screws that secure the top cover to the electrical enclosure. Remove the top cover leaving the emergency stop switch cable connected. Locate the traction drive motor fuse F16 on the motor control PCB and check the fuse for continuity with a meter set in the ohms position to determine if the fuse has been blown. Replace with 4 amp 250 volt slow blow fuse part # 14-860214-000 if necessary.

2. Checking Drive Motor Cable and Motor Resistance.

Locate the Traction Drive Motor Connector and disconnect it from the Electrical Enclosure. Using a voltage meter, select the Ohms setting on the meter and attach the red lead to the brown wire terminal inside the connector and connect the black lead from the meter to the blue wire terminal inside the connector. Resistance shown should be 4 to 5 Ohms. If no resistance is shown, the Traction Drive Motor or cable may be defective and must be repaired or replaced. If resistance is shown, reconnect the drive motor connector to the electrical enclosure and move to step #4 “Checking AC Voltage”.

Refer to Figure 3.

WARNING!!!

The Authority22 must be powered on to perform some of the remaining checks. Extreme caution is advised when taking voltage measurements and only qualified personnel should perform these readings.

3. Checking Drive Motor Voltage.

Reconnect the Drive Motor Connector back into the Electrical Enclosure. Install the red lead from the voltage meter to the brown wire location inside the connector, and the black lead to the blue wire location inside the connector. Select the VDC setting on the meter. Run the Traction Drive Motor in diagnostics as in Step 1. The reading should be +21 to +22 VDC when the motor is run in the forward direction and -21 to -22 VDC when the motor is run in the reverse direction.

If these voltages are correct in Step 3, this indicates that the DC voltages from the Regenerative Drive are correct and the drive motor should operate correctly. Recheck the Traction Drive Motor and cable resistance as described in Step 2 or replace the Traction Drive Motor.

If voltages are low or incorrect refer to Step 4 to troubleshoot the Regenerative Drive and the Motor Control PCB for correct operation.

4. Checking AC voltage to the Motor Control PCB and from the Motor Control PCB to the Regenerative Drive.

Locate the connector J12 located at the top of the Motor Control PCB. Using a voltage meter set to AC Volts, attach one lead to the black wire inside the connector and the other to the white lead inside the connector. With power applied to the machine, this reading should be 115 +/- 10% or 230 +/- 10% VAC depending on incoming voltage to the lane machine. If there is no voltage present, check incoming voltage to the Authority22. If voltage is present, check for the same voltages mentioned above at connector J16.

If there is AC voltage at connector J12 and no voltage at J16 replace the Motor Control PCB. If there is voltage at J16 continue to the next step.

5. Checking Regenerative Drive DC Voltages.

There are 5 colored wires attached at the top of the Regenerative Drive. Refer to Figure 5. Taking voltage readings at these wire locations will tell if the Regenerative Drive has the correct voltages necessary to drive the Traction Drive Motor.

Note: Make sure all 5 wires are stripped and connected properly to the Regenerative Drive. Using a voltage meter, select the VDC setting and attach the black lead from the meter to the black common wire location, and attach the red lead from the meter to the green wire location at the Regenerative Drive. Refer to Figure 5. This should read -15 VDC while running the drive motor in the either direction.

Keep the black meter lead to the black wire location and attach the red lead to the red wire location. This should read +15 VDC while the motor is running in either direction.

If there is no voltage present in either direction, replace the Regenerative Drive.

6. Checking DC Voltage Signal to the Regenerative Drive.

Refer to Figure 5. Locate the Black Wire (Common) and the White Wire (Signal) at the Regenerative Drive. Using a voltage meter, select the VDC setting and attach the black lead from the meter to black wire location and the red lead to the white wire location.

While running the Drive Motor in diagnostics, check for +2 to +3 VDC while running the motor in the forward direction and – 2 to – 3 VDC in the reverse direction.

If there is no voltage present or the voltage is below -2 or +2 in the forward or reverse direction the Motor Control PCB or the Machine Control Board has failed, continue to Step 7 to determine if the Motor Control PCB or the Machine Control PCB will need replacement.

Note: As a final check to determine if the Regenerative Drive or the Motor Controller PCB is giving a incorrect signal, remove the white wire and re-test with step #6 with the red lead on the white wire and not connected, and the black lead connected with the black wire position.

If the signal is zero or under 2 volts forward or reverse, it is the Motor Controller PCB. If the signal voltage is 2- to 5 volts forward or reverse the problem is coming from the Regenerative Drive PCB.

Sometimes the Regenerative Drive will feed back voltage from the signal line causing incorrect signal readings. By disconnecting the white wire and testing we are getting a true reading from the Motor Controller PCB.

7. Checking for Correct Voltage from the Machine Control Board.

Before taking voltage reading, make sure the ribbon cable to the right of R22 is fully seated into the Motor Control PCB and the Machine Control PCB. Using a voltage meter, select VDC and attach the black wire lead to the Phillips head screw for ground, and the red lead to the top of R22. Refer to Figure 6. This reading should be between 2 to 5 VDC while running the Drive motor in the reverse or forward directions.

If there is no voltage present, or the reading is below -2 or +2 replace the Machine Control PCB, the bottom board inside the electrical enclosure. If the correct voltage is present, replace the Motor Control PCB.

Quick Notes: 

• A weak signal from the machine controller PCB or motor controller PCB of -2 or +2 the machine will run slow. This signal must be above 2 volts + or – to obtain the proper speed.
• Normally, if the drive motor will run one direction or the other this means you have 120 or 230 volts to the regenerative drive PCB.

• Old or Defective Calibration Strips.
• UV Bulb worn and needs replacement.
• Component failure, send to Brunswick Electronic Repair Center.

Requires re-configuring of the COM port.

 For Windows XP: C:\Windows\Windows\CLMWIN.INI

1. USB driver not updated. Download the latest driver for the Computer Lane Monitor from FTDI, (see attachment CDM Driver 2.08030)

To re-assign a USB port:

• Click Start, Settings, Control panel, System, … some laptops will have the following path- Start, Settings, Control panel, Performance and maintenance, System…
• From the System menu, select Hardware, Device manager.
• Go to Ports click on the + sign.
• Locate the USB port and note the comm setting. If it is higher than 4, click on it and the properties window will appear. Click on the “port settings” tab. Another window will open and you will see a box labeled Advanced Settings.
• Click the box and there will be a place to set the comm port to a number from 1 -4.
• Click OK and close the windows.

As the UV source tube ages, the Empty Tape Slot reading will decrease and become less stable. You may notice that it takes longer to pass the warm-up check and that the unit does not maintain its calibration as long. The age of the source tube will also affect the Calculated Calibration Value. You should monitor both the Empty Tape Slot reading and the Calculated Calibration value during the calibration process. When the Empty Tape Slot reading drops below 15 and the Calculated Calibration Value increase above 1.5, it is time to replace the UV source tube, Brunswick part number 61-100061-000. New replacement UV source tubes now require 96 hours of “Burn-in” time.

Previously, the burn-in period was 48 hours, but this has changed due to manufacturing environmental regulations. New UV source will rattle, which is caused by a special pellet that is injected into the source tube and will evaporate during the burn-in period. DO NOT use the GE or Phillips brand UV source tube replacements.

Solution:

Warm-Up Failed Message:

• UV Bulb is worn and is unable to pass warm-up tests.
  • Replace UV Bulb
    
• Component failure on circuit board.
  • Send unit in for repair to the Brunswick Electronic Repair Center.

Important: Please read instructions completely first as the charger will shut down after 30 seconds of idle anytime during this process and you will have to restart this procedure.

Disconnect the charger from the side charging port of the Envoy lane machine to make this adjustment and turn on when adjustment is completed.

1. Press and hold the Setup/Enter button for 5 seconds. (See Figure #1) 

2. The current battery type and Voltage/Amperage displays will flash.

3. Using the up/down arrows (See Figure #1) move the selected LED light to Preset #2 Calcium/Custom.

4. Once set to Preset #2 Calcium/Custom both the Volts and Amps and the Charging and Conditioning LED’s will begin flashing.

5. Press the Setup/Enter button. The display should now show the Volts flashing and the Amps display blank. Press the up arrow button to move the voltage to 28.6 volts.

6. Press the Setup/Enter button. The Amps display will flash and the Volts display will be blank, the Ready LED will also be flashing. Press the up arrow button to move the Amps to 28.6 Amps.

7. Press the Setup/Enter button to lock in the settings. Your charger is now ready to operate.

Figure #1

Note: During this process, real-time voltage and amperages will not be displayed until after you press the “Setup/Enter” button in step 7. 

Some chargers may have up to a 0.2 volt difference in the real-time voltage readings.  Example, if set for 28.6 the real-time voltage results could be 28.8 volts. 

Conditioner Pump Head Removal and Replacement – Envoy

Tools needed:

• Allen wench size 1/8”

• 3/8 Drive ratchet and 3/8” socket

• #T-25 Torx screw driver

• Card board

• Terry cloth towels

• Inch pound torque wrench (preferred but not necessary)

• 1/4” and 3/8” vinyl caps to plug hoses

• New pump head 14-100771-051 (Can be used for conditioning or cleaner pumps)

Instructions:

1. Ensure that the conditioner tank is no more than 1/3 full. (This first step is optional to reduce spillage of conditioner)

            a. In the GUI navigate to the “Operators Screen” Highlight the “Temperature Cycle” and turn it to “On”.

            b. While the pump is running, at the tank connection, disconnect the suction tube that goes to the inlet on the pump. (See Figure #1)

Figure #1

            c. When conditioner stops flowing back to the tank, turn off temperature cycle. Reconnect the suction tube on tank.

2. Removing the Conditioner Pump Assembly:

            a. Disconnect the electrical connections for the Pressure valve and the Conditioner Pump.

            b. Remove the 3 bolts that mount the pump assembly to the wall. Remove 1/8” Allen cap screw (Figure #2) attaching the conditioner pump bracket to the frame.

Figure #2

            c. Take your hand and hold onto the bracket, use your other hand to pry the shield away from the oil pump filter assembly (Figure #3) and at the same time raising the pump assembly up and out.

Figure #3

            d. Flip entire pump bracket and assembly upside down so that the 7 bolts that fasten the pump head are accessible (Figure #4).

            Note: Lay a piece of card board and terry cloth towel under the oil pump assembly to catch oil drippings and to use as a support to work on.

Figure #4

            e. Disconnect the inlet and outlet fittings/Tubes from the pump. Use the vinyl caps (if used) to plug the hose ends.

            f. Remove the 3 large Torx Head bolts (Figure #5) from the pump using a T-25 screwdriver. Retain these bolts, Remove the pump head from the pump motor.

Figure #5

             g. Place the new pump head 14-100771-051 on the pump motor. Align the 3 bolt holes and finger tighten the bolts.

3. Torquing the bolts:

            a. Preferred method: using a torque wrench and a T-25 bit, gradually torque the bolts to 27 in-lbs.

            b. Then ensure that all 7 bolts are at 27 in-lbs.

Alternate method: Using a manual screwdriver with a T-25 bit, gradually tighten the 3 bolts until they are very tight by hand. Using any wrench/lever or other mechanical means may over tighten and break the bolts or damage the pump! Ensure that all 7 bolts are very tight by hand.

Re-attach the fittings/tubes to the pump.

            a. Re-attach the hoses back onto the new pump head.
            b. Re-attach pump bracket to the frame.
            c. Re-connect the electrical connections for the pump and the pressure valve.
            d. In the GUI navigate to the “Operators Screen” Highlight the “Temperature Cycle” and press “Okay” to turn on the                   temperature cycle. Check for leaks.
            e. Continue to run temperature cycle until all air has been removed from the conditioning system.

The Envoy conditioner pump head to motor bolts may not be tight on some conditioner pumps.

New Envoy lane machines and new conditioner pumps shipped between 2/1/2014 and 6/30/2014 may experience seepage of conditioner from the pump head to motor area. This can be fixed by tightening the pump head bolts to factory specifications.

Below are the instructions to remove and replace the conditioner pump and tighten the pump head bolts.

Tools Required: 

• 3/8” Drive ratchet and 3/8” socket, or 3/8” wrench
• 1/8” Allen wrench
• T20 Torx socket
• Torque wrench with Inch Pound or Newton Meter scale

Parts Required: None

Procedure: Note: It is not necessary to remove any of the conditioner pump hoses for this procedure.

1. Relieve the conditioner pressure using the lane machine GUI as follows: 

• Select “Maintenance” > “Diagnostics” > “Conditioning.
  
  
• Highlight the “Oil Pressure Valve” button and press “Okay” to relieve the oil pressure to zero as shown on the GUI digital gauge.
  
  
• Check the analog gauge on the accumulator rail to verify zero pressure.

2. Locate and disconnect the electrical connector for the conditioning pump and the oil pressure valve.

3. Remove the small 10-32 x 1/2” long Allen head screw that secures the cross bracket to the conditioner pump oil/filter pan. Refer to Figure 1. 

4. Remove the three conditioning pump bracket bolts located on the outside wall next to the waste tank. Refer to Figure 2.

5. Push the oil pan wall away from the bracket so that the complete assembly can be lifted up and out of the oil pan tray. Refer to Figure 3.

6. Lay the assembly across the dividing wall between the oil pan and center tub section. Refer to Figure 4.

7. Using a torque wrench and T20 Torx socket, tighten the seven screws to 26-28 Inch pounds or 3.1 Newton Meter Nm. Start with one screw and alternate sides of the pump head when torquing the screws. Refer to Figure 5 for torquing sequence.

8. Reverse the pump removal procedure (step 5 – step 2) to re-install the conditioner pump and bracket assembly back into the machine. 

This procedure will show how to remove and replace the injector rail along with replacing the heater element. There are times when lane cleaner or other liquids are introduced into the conditioner tank by accident and the injectors on the injector rail can become clogged and cannot be cleared out by the injector blow out procedure.

This procedure should also be followed when replacing the heater element if it fails. The heater replacement instructions are at the end of this injector rail replacement instructions.

Tools Needed:

Phillips screwdriver
3/8” Closed/open end wrench
3/8” Socket with 3/8” ratchet
6” to 10” 3/8” extension
Small screwdriver or painted screwdriver
Permanent marker for marking the injector cables
Extension hose from your spare parts kit
Screwdriver big enough to fit into the Cord Kill Stud Assembly to hold it in place
3/8” and 1/4” plastic caps for hoses

To start we need to de-pressurize and empty all the conditioner and cleaner from the conditioner and cleaner tanks.

1. Remove the electrical enclosure from the machine.

2. Disconnect all the connections from both RH and LH side of the electrical enclosure.

3. Remove the GUI, and then remove the injector cables that are below the GUI screen that route through the center wall off the machine. Mark these 1-5 so that they can be reinstalled the same as removed.

4. Remove the 4 each 3/8” socket head bolts that mount the electrical enclosure to the 4 “L” brackets.

5. You should be able to now lift the enclosure straight up and out of the machine and set aside.

Next, we need to remove the battery and its tray.

6. Remove the two battery clamps.

7. Remove the bottom battery tray. There are four hex cap screws holding securing this plate.

Now, we need to remove the conditioner tank.

8. Remove the cord kill micro switch bracket by removing the two 3/8” bolts that mount the switch and lay the switch and bracket over the wall out of the way.

9. Remove the cord kill stud assembly. Use a large screwdriver to put in the slot where the cord ring would normally go. Then, using a 3/8” closed/open end wrench, start unscrewing the cord kill stud assembly and remove with the washers and spring. Place all parts back together.

10. Remove the gas spring shock at this location, take a small pocket screw driver and push the clip outwards to unsnap the shock from the ball.

Note: Remember to de-pressurize the conditioning system and drain the system before you remove the hoses!

11. Find the two conditioner tank mounting bolts on the side of the machine and remove these. You will need to remove the side cover.

12. The tank is now loose and can be lifted straight up, but be careful of the air vent fitting towards the front of the machine. You can maneuver that fitting around the nut and ball joint of the hood spring. Just take your time.

13. Unplug the connection to the level sensor.

14. Lay the tank over to the side, or remove the tank by removing the two 3/8” hoses from the tank making sure you note where they came from. Then, take the 3/8” caps and cap off the both hoses so there are no leaks.

15. Remove the ¼” vent valve hose and cap.

Next, we need to remove the cleaner tank.

16. Remove the two 3/8” socket head screws that mount the cleaner tank to the back wall.

17. Slowly lift the tank up and disconnect the level sensor connection.

18. Lay the tank over the side, or remove the tank by removing the two 3/8” tubes from the fittings and cap them off with 3/8” caps. Remember to drain the system and tank if you are removing the tank.

Before we remove the injector rail we will need to remove the injector connections from the injectors themselves.

19. Use a small pocket screwdriver or a paint can opener like in the tools picture, move the screwdriver between the injector and the felt padding centering the screwdriver to the injector.

Then, push up on the screwdriver, this will push up on the clip on the injector unlocking it. While the injector is unlocked, grasp the connection and pull away from the body of the injector.

20. You will need to do this to all 39 injectors.

21. After you finish unplugging all 39 connections, disconnect the heater connection on the LH side of the injector rail under where the conditioner tank was mounted.

To get at the rail mounting nuts under the accumulator rail, you will need to remove the accumulator.

22. Remove the two mounting nuts and lift and move the accumulator away from the wall. Slide the two carriage bolts out and set aside as they may fall out and get lost.

23. You should now have clearance to remove the two nuts for the injector rail.

24. Remove the two other nuts along the rail on the inside so that the rail is loose. These are located below the buffer up/down motor and below the AC power converter.

Removing the rail:

25. Now that the rail is loose, you can disconnect the 1/4” or 3/8” hose that leads up to the spin on oil filter from the end of the injector rail on the left-hand side and remove the other 3/8” hose on the right-hand side that leads up to the accumulator rail.

26. Drop the injector rail out the bottom of the machine.

Once you have the old injector rail out you can now install the new rail by following these instructions in reverse.

Replacing the heater element in the injector rail:

By following the above replacement instructions, you will have the injector rail out of the machine. Now, you can work on this injector rail on the bench to replace the heating element.

27. Remove all the silicone from each end of the rail that holds the element into the rail.

28. Pull out the heater element from the rail. If it does not want to come out easily, you may have to take a 1/4” threaded rod 20’ to 24” long to tap the element out of the injector rail.

29. Once the heating element is out of the injector rail, install the new element into the rail trying to center it inside the rail. It should be placed 2-1/2” from each end. The rail is 41” long and the heating element is 36” long. Center it the best you can and then fill the cavity back up with silicone on both ends.

30. Reinstall the injector rail in reverse from the instructions above.

PROCESS for RESOLVING INCONSISTENT INJECTIONS or PURGING CONTAMINATION from the Conditioning System

Note: Before starting on the following 12 or 23 step procedures, please read these “Suggestive Steps to Solve Inconsistent Injections”.  Try these first, and if issues persist, go to “Purging Contamination from the Conditioning System” below.

Suggestive Steps to Solve Inconsistent Injections:

Purging Contamination from the Conditioning System:

 Refer to pages 132-144 of the Envoy Operation & Service Manual (14-900101-000)

IF CLEANER IS ACCIDENTALLY ADDED TO THE CONDITIONER TANK BUT NOT CIRCULATED THROUGH THE SYSTEM:

DO NOT OPERATE THE MACHINE BEFORE CONDUCTING THE 14 STEP PROCEDURE below to contain the resulting white sludge from being spread through the rest of the conditioner system.  Conducting this procedure as soon as possible after the cleaner has been added to the conditioner tank will minimize the negative effects and avoid the need to conduct the 24-step process to purge the contamination from the complete conditioner system.

1. Remove the pump outlet tubing at the compression fitting where it connects to the inlet of the Spin-On Oil Filter.

2. Use union fitting to attach ~40” tubing (from spare parts kit or local hardware or plumbing store).

3. Place loose end of this tube into a 2-5 liter container to collect the waste fluid.

4. Go to the Diagnostics menu to activate the conditioner pump to pump all the fluid out of the conditioner tank.

5. Remove conditioner tank to remove any solid or gel that remains in the bottom of the tank. Use IPA99 if necessary to help remove any contamination from inside the conditioner tank before reinstalling.

6. Fill the conditioner tank with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (61-860254-000/61-860254255-000 IPA 99) and purge any remaining conditioner/cleaner from the system tubing by activating the conditioner pump until the drain tubing in the waste container runs with CLEAR IPA 99.

7. Clean or replace the conditioner screen filter. (page 137-138)

8. Drain the Conditioning Supply Tank completely of all IPA 99. (pages 133-134)

9. Fill the conditioner tank with the desired new Conditioner.

10. Purge any remaining IPA 99 from the system tubing by activating the conditioner pump until the drain tubing in the waste container runs with CLEAR new Conditioner.

11. Remove the drain tube and reconnect the tube onto the compression fitting where it connects to the inlet of the Spin-On Oil Filter.

12. Replace the 11-655029-001 Spin-On Filter if necessary (pages 135-136). NEVER BYPASS the Spin-On Oil Filter when pumping fluid through the injector rail.

13. With the machine in the operating position, turn on the heat cycle to circulate the new Conditioner in the system for a few minutes to purge air out of the system.

14. Run the new Conditioner through the injectors by running a minimum of 5 lanes with the 100 Unit pattern for all 39 injectors for a single zone of 50 feet.

• If the above procedure was not effective or if you are unsure if you contained the cleaner in the conditioning tank before it was spread to the rest of the system, you will need to conduct the 23-step procedure below:

IF CLEANER WAS CIRCULATED THROUGH THE SYSTEM or if the injectors are suspected of contamination USE THE BELOW PROCEDURE.

Please purchase 2 each 11-655029-001 Spin-On Filters for Replacement During this Procedure.

Parts needed: 

• 2 Each 11-655029-001 Spin-On Filters
• 6 Quarts IPA 99% alcohol (61-860254-000/61-860254255-000)
• Teflon thread tape
  

1. Completely Drain the old conditioner and residue from the Conditioning Supply Tank (pages 133-134). Pump out as much of the existing conditioner from the tank and system tubing as possible (+Physically remove conditioner tank to empty liquid or contamination below the inner tubing level.) BEFORE adding any IPA99.  If the 11-655029-001 Spin-On Oil Filter is completely plugged and blocking the outlet of the pump, it may be necessary to replace it with a new filter at this time instead of at step #7 (pages 135-136). NEVER BYPASS the Spin-On Oil Filter when pumping fluid through the injector rail. 

2. Remove the accumulator from the accumulator rail and drain contents. Pour IPA 99 into the opening and fill to top. Shake the IPA 99 inside the accumulator to wash out any contaminates. Note: When replacing the accumulator, be sure to add Teflon tape to the threads of the fitting before reinstalling the accumulator.

3. Fill the conditioner tank with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (61-860254-000/61-860255-000 IPA 99).
   

4. Purge any remaining conditioner from the system tubing by activating the conditioner pump until the drain tubing in the waste container runs with CLEAR IPA 99. 

5. Remove the drain tube and reconnect the tube from the accumulator rail to the pressure control valve.

6. Activate the conditioner pump to let the conditioner pressure increase to 45psi in the Diagnostics with the Oil Pressure Valve closed and then quickly turn the conditioner pump off.  Then open the Oil Pressure Valve to let the pressure drop to 0psi.  (This step helps purge residual conditioner that may be trapped in the accumulator).

7. Replace Spin-On filter with new one.
   

8. With the machine in the operating position, circulate the IPA 99 in the system for a few minutes to purge air out of the system (page 137).

9. Remove the buffer brush (pages 143-144

10. Create a special pattern that is 100 units of oil for all 39 injectors for a single zone of 50 feet.

11. Run the IPA99 through the injectors by running a minimum of 10 lanes with this pattern.

12. Drain the Conditioning Supply Tank (pages 133-134) by pumping out as much of the existing IPA99 from the tank and system tubing as possible.

13. Fill the conditioner tank with the desired new conditioner.

14. Purge any remaining IPA 99 from the system tubing by activating the conditioner pump until the drain tubing in the waste container runs with CLEAR new conditioner.

15. Remove the drain tube and reconnect the tube from the accumulator rail to the pressure control valve.

16. Activate the conditioner pump to let the conditioner pressure increase to 45psi in the Diagnostics with the Oil Pressure Valve closed and then quickly turn the conditioner pump off.  Then open the Oil Pressure Valve to let the pressure drop to 0psi. (This step helps purge residual IPA 99 that may be trapped in the accumulator).

17. Replace the Spin-on Filter: Remove the spin-on filter that has residual conditioner and replace it with a new spin-on filter.

18. With the machine in the operating position, turn on the heat cycle to circulate the new conditioner in the system for a few minutes to purge air out of the system.

19. Run the new Conditioner through the injectors by running a minimum of 5 lanes with the 100 Unit pattern for all 39 injectors for a single zone of 50 feet.

20. Run the Oil Injector Zig-Zag Test (pages 91-92) to assure that all injectors are properly firing with the expected pentagon shaped pattern.

21. Reinstall the buffer brush. (pages 143-144)

22. Select an actual pattern and run 10 lanes.

23. Use the Computer Lane Monitor to assure that the oil volume is correct for the selected pattern.

If these steps do not clear the injectors, please contact Brunswick Tech Support for additional information techsupport@brunswickbowling.com or Domestic 231-725-4966 or International 231-725-4966

Making this adjustment for the DECEL trim pot will give you more flexibility when making the Base and End of Lane Speed adjustments. This helps stop the machine faster in the pin deck area instead of the machine coasting to a stop.

Note: This adjustment is not necessary for machines built after 1/1/2014

Tools Needed:

• Phillips Head Screw Driver for removing the enclosure cover.
• Small Pocket Screw Driver for making the adjustment. (picture below)

1. Remove the battery cable from the electrical enclosure marked “To Battery”; this will ensure there is no chance to cause a short.

2. Remove the top cover on the electrical box using the Phillips screw driver to gain access to the speed control board.

3. The DECEL trim pot is the 5^th trim pot from the top. It will say “DECEL” next to it. Using a small pocket screw driver adjust the trim pot all the way CCW until it stops. Do not force the trim pot, but just turn the pot CCW until it stops.

4. Replace the cover and make your adjustments in the GUI for the Base or End of Lane Speed now.

Notes to read before continuing:

A new adjustment to the Decel Trim pot went into effect approximately 1/1/2014 this adjustment would cause the machine to brake harder at the end of the pindeck and at the foul line. Because of this we can add higher Base Speed and End Of Lane voltage adjustments making sure the machine passes through the pin deck area without it going too far and falling onto the skids at the end of the pin deck. In testing, after this Decel adjustment was made, we can raise the Base to its fullest 27 VDC and the End Of Lane Speed to its fullest +15 and the machine will not run off the end of the pindeck onto the machines skids. It is suggested that if the “Decel Trim Pot” and the “FMAX Trim Pot” are set properly, the setting for the End of Lane Adjustment should be set at +6. Then, the Base Speed Adjustment is all that is needed to dial in the correct speed of the machine.

• The purpose if adjusting the Decel Trim pot full CCW is to apply the brakes stronger at the pindeck end of the lane. If the mechanic can verify that the machine already stops very quickly (and has never run off the end of the lane), then they could skip this step.

• The purpose of adjusting the Base Voltage for Speed Calculations is to increase or decrease the speeds at all locations on the lane. This is mainly done if the machine doesn't run the entire lane in the expected time range.

• The EOL speed adjustment only affects the speed in the last ~12" of forward travel at the pindeck end of the lane. It should always be done AFTER any Base Voltage adjustments.

End Of Lane Speed Adjustment:

Tools needed: AC Power Cord for the lane machine

Note: This adjustment is made with the machine switched over to AC Power, Unplug the battery cable from the port marked “Battery” on the electrical enclosure and change over the power type connector to the “AC Power” connection.

The End of Lane Speed Adjustment is balanced between the upper and lower limits for the center to reduce the risk of an unknown “borderline” adjustment.

Balancing this adjustment is also critical to make sure the machine will run successfully if the center ever needs to use the e RUN feature (without GUI voltage adjustments).

1. Finding the Upper and Lower Limits for the End of Lane Speed number.

• Record the starting End of Lane Speed Adjustment value.

• Reduce the End of Lane Speed Adjustment in steps of 2 units until the machine stalls in the pin deck area (rear cover <2” past 2-3 pin spots). Note this number (usually a value of -5 to -15).

2. Set the End of Lane Speed Adjustment back to the starting value and continue to increase in steps of 2 until the machine drops off the end of the pin deck. Note: This number also (usually a value of +5 to +15). It is normal to have a 20 point spread between upper and lower limits.

3. Set the final End of Lane Speed Adjustment value halfway between the upper and lower limits that were found above.   

Example: If the lower limit was -8 and the upper limit was +12, then set the final value to +2.

It is best to balance the End of Lane Speed Adjustment value with a fully charged battery and then continue to run the machine for the remaining lanes of the entire center to assure that it runs perfectly through all pin decks without any issues.

If you notice any lane that the lane machine is at risk of stalling or running past the end of the pin deck, make slight adjustments to this balanced End of Lane Speed Adjustment value. Contact Brunswick Technical Support if you experience a smaller range between upper and lower limits or experience inconsistent results with these adjustments.

This adjustment is made when you have adjusted your Envoy Base Speed Adjustment to its high limit of 27 volts and the machines time is still too slow for proper operation in the selected cleaning mode you are using for that pattern. To time your Envoy, start the timing once you have put the Envoy onto the lane and you have pressed the Okay button to send the Envoy down the lane. Once the Envoy has returned to the foul line and stopped is when you stop the timer.

Tools Needed:

• #2 Phillips screwdriver

• Small pocket screwdriver.

• Voltmeter

• Sealer or White-Out to lock trim pot into position

Note: Please run 6-8 lanes before timing the Envoy to warm up the drive motor and to wet down the absorbent wiper.

Below are the time parameters for each cleaning mode.

62-72 Seconds Quick Clean
70-80 Seconds Heavy Clean
80-88 Seconds Max Clean

Normally, the voltage is factory preset at 14.2VDC. There may be situations where this voltage may need to be checked, readjusted or raised between 14.2 and 14.8 VDC for the Envoy to perform at its rated speed for that cleaning mode. The most common situation is when the Envoy stops in the pin deck area or the machine is running very slow.

Note: This adjustment is made with the AC power cord. You must change the power type jumper to AC power to make this adjustment. To switch to using the AC/DC power supply, first disconnect the AGM or Lithium battery power cable and power type jumper (#1) from the electrical enclosure (#2). Then, locate the AC/DC power supply red 24DVC power cable connector (usually coiled just under the left side of the electrical enclosure). Connect the AC/DC power supply cable and power type jumper to the electrical enclosure. (See Figure #1)

Figure #1 

Once you have made the change to AC power, and have ran 6-8 lanes in a clean and condition mode, remove the top cover of the electrical enclosure by removing the six screws on the top of the enclosure.

1. Locate the Drive Motor connector on the same side (left side looking from handle) of the enclosure as the AC power plug was installed. Leave the drive motor connector plugged into the enclosure. Take your volt meter leads and put the red lead into the connector wire for the brown wire, and the black lead into the blue wire on the connector like the illustration below (Figure #2). Select on your volt meter DC Voltage for this test.

Figure #2

2. Using the GUI, navigate to Maintenance > Diagnostics > Drive, then make sure the Forward is selected on the right-hand button display. Now select and press Drive on the left-hand button. This should start the drive motor and the volt meter should read DC voltage at 14.2 volts. If not, this voltage will need to be adjusted up to the 14.2 to 14.8VDC.

To adjust this voltage higher you must adjust the speed control boards “FMAX” trim pot. This is the first trim pot from the top of the board (see Figure #3)

3. While the machine is running in the drive test mode, adjust this trim pot to 14.5VDC to 14.8VDC. Once this has been obtained, go back to your base speed adjustment and start at the default voltage of 24.0 volts and adjust voltage for speed from there.

Be sure to seal the trim pot with a sealer from an electronics shop or use White-Out correction liquid from an office supply store to seal the trim pot otherwise the adjustment may change from normal everyday transportation.

Figure #3

Again, below are the parameters for each cleaning mode.

62-72 Seconds Quick Clean
70-80 Seconds Heavy Clean
80-88 Seconds Max Clean

Note: Please make sure you run 6 to 8 lanes to warm up the lane machine drive motor and wet the absorbent wiper so that you can get a more accurate time measurement.

Notes to read before continuing:

A new adjustment to the Decal Trim pot went into effect approximately 1/1/2014. This adjustment would cause the machine to brake harder at the end of the pindeck and at the foul line. Because of this, we can add higher Base Speed and End Of Lane voltage adjustments making sure the machine passes through the pin deck area without it going too far and falling onto the skids at the end of the pin deck. In testing, after this Decal adjustment was made, we can raise the Base to its fullest 27 VDC and the End Of Lane Speed to its fullest +15 and the machine will not run off the end of the pindeck onto the machines skids.

• The purpose if adjusting the Decal Trim pot full CCW is to apply the brakes stronger at the pindeck end of the lane. If the mechanic can verify that the machine already stops very quickly (and has never run off the end of the lane) then they could skip this step.
   
• The purpose of adjusting the Base Voltage for Speed Calculations is to increase or decrease the speeds at all locations on the lane. This is mainly done if the machine doesn't run the entire lane in the expected time range.
  
  
• The EOL speed adjustment only affects the speed in the last ~12" of forward travel at the pindeck end of the lane. It should always be done AFTER any Base Voltage adjustments.

• 62-72 seconds -  Quick Clean
• 70-80 seconds -  Heavy Clean
• 78-88 seconds -  Max Clean

How to set your time and date to compensate for the 4-hour loss.

Tools needed: None

The Advantech Motherboard for the Envoy lane machine has a bug where the board reverts back 4 hours of time after the time has been changed and a re-boot of the GUI happens.

The work around for this is to set your time up four hours ahead when changing daylight savings time. Then, reboot one time and the time will revert back 4 hours. The time is now set and will not change when powered down and/or re-booted.

Remember, when changing the time, always add 4 hours to the time and then re-boot the GUI.

Advantech is working on this issue at the present time.

The AC/DC power supply is designed to provide a level of back up protection in the event that the batteries fail to get recharged after use, or hold a charge as they end their life cycle.

The Envoy AC/DC Power Supply is installed below the electrical enclosure before the lane machine is shipped. To switch to using the AC/DC Power Supply, first disconnect the AGM or Lithium Battery power cable and power type jumper from the electrical enclosure.

Locate the AC/DC Power Supply red 24VDC power cable connector (usually coiled just under the left side of the electrical enclosure).

Connect the AC/DC Power Supply cable and power type jumper to the electrical enclosure.

The input cable of the AC/DC Power Supply is already connected to the Twist-Lock connector on the rear cover. Connect the Twist-Lock end of the supplied 125’ power cord into the matching connector in the rear cover. Place the power cord ring into the Cord Kill assembly. Connect the other end of the 125’ cable into a grounded power supply with 100-240VAC, 50/60 Hz. The Envoy machine should now be powered by the 24VDC nominal output of the AC/DC Power Supply and operate similarly as if it were powered by a battery.

The operator will now need to manage the power cord so that it does not get trapped under the lane machine during operation.

The 125’ power cord should only be connected to the AC/DC Twist-Lock connector on the rear cover when the Envoy is in the operating position. This cord should be disconnected before the machine is lifted into the transport position.

If the batteries are not fully charged, the AC/DC Power Supply cable and power type jumper should be disconnected from the electrical enclosure after running the lanes and the battery power cable and power type jumper should be reconnected to the electrical enclosure. The battery charger should then be connected and turned on to charge the batteries.

Notes:

• This procedure would be the same when upgrading your battery from a AGM to a Lithium battery. The Power Type plug is very important.
• If you upgraded from a AGM to a Lithium battery and did not change the power type plug the machine may run a bit slower, it will run but at a slower pace.
• If you forgot to change the AC power type plug to a battery type power plug of any type the lane machine vacuum will run when the Okay button is pressed on the approach. When using AC power the vacuum runs continually like a Authority22 does since it is AC and has no worry with battery life. It is designed to run like this when using AC power. Battery power will give you options to delay the vacuum start time. 

The eRUN Display provides a way to continue to run the Envoy lane machine in an emergency situation without the GUI. The eRUN will only be able to run pattern #1, so it is a good idea to make sure that pattern #1 is your most popular pattern set in the clean and condition mode. Also, follow the End of Lane Speed Adjustments noted after the following basic Installation and Operation Instructions.

eRUN Display Installation Instructions

1. Turn the power off to the Envoy using the switch on the LH side cover.
2. Disconnect the non-functioning GUI and send it to the Brunswick for repair. (Contact Brunswick Electronic Repair or your Distributor if you are unsure of how to return electronic parts for repair.)
3. Locate the eRUN keypad extension cable (P/N 14-100899-000) from the eRUN package.

4. Connect one end of this cable to the T-handle keypad cable that was just disconnected from the GUI (Emergency Run Cable Connections figure is shown below).

5. Connect the other end of this cable into the “eRUN Keypad” port on the RH side of the electronic enclosure.

6. Locate the eRUN display cable (P/N 14-100897-000).

7. Connect the one end of this cable into the “eRUN Display” port on the RH side of the electronic enclosure.

8. Connect the other end into the port on the eRUN box 

9. Snap the eRUN enclosure onto the GUI support, using the spring-loaded ball detect similarly to the attachment of the GUI.

Note: Tighten down the screws on the display cable to the eRun emergency box and zip tie the cables together once you have them connected to both the eRun emergency box and electrical enclosure. This way you keep both cables together and the cables connected to the eRun box so that they do not get lost. Keep this “system” together in a safe place. If any one of these pieces are missing the eRun emergency backup system will not work.

eRUN Operation Instructions

1. Turn the power back on to the Envoy using the switch on the LH side cover.

2. Observe the 2-line eRUN Display text as it initially displays the firmware version and then indicates that the GUI is not detected and you are running in the eRUN mode.

3. Press the OK on the T-handle keypad as the eRUN text prompts you ‘Preparing Lane?’.

4. Observe the eRUN text as it is ‘Preparing’ (lowering the squeegee/duster cloth and setting the conditioner pressure).

5. Push the Envoy onto the lane when the eRUN text prompts you to put the machine onto the lane.

6. Press OK to start running that lane.

7. Repeat steps 3 through 6 for each lane that you choose to run.

8. Simple error messages will be displayed, but the eRUN has limited functionality and should be replaced with a functional GUI as soon as possible.

Reminder: Always have your favorite or most used pattern downloaded into the pattern #1 position as the eRun box only reads the #1 pattern position.

The Authority22 and Envoy lane machines have used different types of "End of Lane sensors" since their inception. The current part number for the sensor is 14-100235-091. This sensor (3rd Gen) can be used in both the Authority22 and Envoy lane machines.

Authority22 End of Lane (EOL) sensor types:

   1^st Generation was an adjustable type that was 3-1/8” long (85.3mm).

   2^nd Generation was a photo-optical type that was 2-1/8” long (55mm) and is NOT adjustable.

   3^rd Generation (Current) is an adjustable type that is 1-1/4” long (33mm).

Envoy End of Lane (EOL) sensor types (Same as A22):

   1^st Generation was a photo-optical type that was 2-1/8” long (55mm) and was NOT adjustable.

   2^nd Generation was an adjustable type that was 1-1/4” long (33mm).

Authority22 1st Generation End of Lane Sensor Replacement and Adjustment

The Authority22 first generation End of Lane sensor is a Capacitive Proximity Switch. The base is 3-5/16” long (85.3mm) and is adjustable.

Tools needed:

• (2) 15/16” wrenches or adjustable wrench.
  

Replacing the 1^st generation (A22 Only) End of Lane Sensor

1. Place machine in transport position with the cover open and power supply disconnected.
2. Loosen and remove nut at base of sensor.
3. Remove black O-ring from base of sensor.
4. Disconnect sensor cable from the quick-connect cable harness.
5. Pull sensor out from the top side of the machine and remove the second O-ring on top side of the sensor.
6. Place an O-ring under the top-side nut and then install new sensor from top side of the machine so that sensor extends 1-3/8" or 35mm beyond shield.

Note: The sensor must be set in proper position for accurate operation.

7. Place the second O-ring on the sensor pushing it up to the bottom side of the mounting shield.

8. Insert and tighten nuts at base of sensor.

9. Adjust sensor as needed.

Adjusting the 1^st generation (A22 Only) End of Lane Sensor

Tools Needed:

• Small screwdriver included in the spare parts

  kit.

• An accurate measuring device

• (2) 15/16” wrenches or adjustable wrench
  

1. Place machine in operating position with power supply connected.
2. This sensor must be set in proper position and at the proper sensitivity for accurate operation.
3. To adjust the physical position of the sensor, verify that the sensor extends 1-3/8" (35mm) beyond shield at its base and adjust if necessary using the 15/16" wrenches or adjustable wrenches.
4. To adjust the sensitivity of the sensor, use a small screwdriver supplied in spare parts kit, to increase (clockwise) or decrease (counterclockwise) the sensitivity adjustment (yellow slotted dial). The factory-set position is with the slotted dial at approximately 3 o’clock.
5. While the machine is on the approach, the LED on the sensor should be Off. Rotate the sensitivity adjustment clockwise so the LED turns On and then counterclockwise so it is Off. Place finger underneath sensor and the LED should turn On and then Off once the finger is removed. If the light stays on, then adjust sensitivity down (counterclockwise).
6. Run the lane machine to verify proper sensitivity adjustment, if it returns too early then increase the sensitivity.
7. Verify that the end-of-lane sensor does not contact the lane when the front lane-to-lane castors drop into the gutter at the foul line.

Authority22/Envoy 2nd generation End of Lane Sensor Replacement and Adjustment

The Authority22 Second Generation End of Lane Sensor is a Defuse Reflective Sensor. The base is 2-1/8” long (55mm) and no adjustment is necessary.

Replacing the 2^nd generation End-of-Lane Sensor

Tools needed:

• A wrench
  

Parts needed:

• Replacement EOL sensor (Part Number 14-100235-000).

1. Place machine in transport position with the cover open and power supply disconnected.
2. Loosen and remove nut at base of sensor.
3. Remove black O-ring from base of sensor.
4. Disconnect sensor cable from the quick-connect cable harness.
5. Pull sensor out from the top side of the machine and remove the second O-ring on top side of the sensor.
6. Place an O-ring under the top-side nut and then install new sensor from top side of the machine.
7. Place the second O-ring on the sensor pushing it up to the bottom side of the mounting shield
8. Insert and tighten nuts at base of sensor until the end of the sensor is just even with the bottom edge of the lower nut.
   

Adjusting the 2^nd generation End of Lane Sensor

There is no adjustment necessary for this type of End of Lane Sensor. Check and make sure the sensor is operational by using the GUI and navigating to the Maintenance > Diagnostics > Sensors screen. Check the sensor by placing your hand under the sensor to check and see if the End of Lane sensor button on the GUI screen is changing color state. If so the End of Lane Sensor is working fine.

Authority22/Envoy 3^rd Generation End of Lane Sensor Replacement and Adjustment

The Authority22 third generation End of Lane Sensor is a Defuse Reflective Sensor. The base 1-1/4” long or 33mm and is adjustable.

Replacing the 3^rd generation End-of-Lane Sensor

Tools needed:

• Adjustable wrench
  

Parts needed: Replacement EOL sensor (Part Number 14-100235-000).

1. Place machine in transport position with the cover open and power supply disconnected.
2. Loosen and remove nut at base of sensor.
3. Remove black O-ring from base of sensor.
4. Disconnect sensor cable from the quick-connect cable harness.
5. Pull sensor out from the top side of the machine and remove the second O-ring on top side of the sensor.
6. Place an O-ring under the top-side nut and then install new sensor from top side of the machine.
7. Place the second O-ring on the sensor pushing it up to the bottom side of the mounting shield
8. Insert and tighten nuts at base of sensor until the end of the sensor is just even with the bottom edge of the lower nut.             

Adjusting the 3^rd generation End of Lane Sensor

This style End of Lane Sensor has an adjustable sensitivity control that has been preset to the position shown below by Brunswick. The range of this adjustment screw is 270 degrees (135 degrees to either side of the position shown).

Do not force this screw more than 1/3 turn past the position shown.

Sensitivity Control Operational Indicator (Yellow) Power Indicator (Green)

This sensitivity control should result in a steady signal (shown by the yellow operational indicator light) while the red end of the sensor is within 4-6” of the lane or approach surface. This yellow operational indicator light should turn off, indicating that the sensor has gone past the pin deck end of the lane, if the lane surface is greater than 6” from the red end of the sensor.

Note: The mounting nut will cover the sensitivity control when the sensor is properly mounted on the front of the lane machine. Also, make sure to re-use the black O-rings from the original sensor while installing the new sensor.

Check of GUI Settings, Run Time Log and Observing Travel in Pin Deck (no meter or opening of enclosure).

• STEP 1: When encountering any Envoy Travel Speed or Stalling issues, first determine the selected Travel Speed in the Pattern Design Parameters screen of the GUI. Record the selected speed below:   GUI Software version: ___

Quick Clean ______ ?                (62 – 72 second Run Time Range, Target 67 seconds)

Heavy Clean ______ ?               (70 – 80 second Run Time Range, Target 74 seconds for v3.04 GUI software)

Max Clean ______ ?                  (78 – 88 second Run Time Range, Target 82 seconds for v3.04 GUI software)

• STEP 2: Review the Run Time Log to see if the Actual Run Times are in the proper time ranges selected above. It is best to record the data for lane #5, lane #15 and the last lane in the space below:

Lane #5 Run Time:  Avg _____ , Hi _____ , Lo _____ , 3^rd _____ , 2^nd _____ , Last _____ seconds

Lane #55 Run Time:  Avg _____ , Hi _____ , Lo _____ , 3^rd _____ , 2^nd _____ , Last _____ seconds

Last Lane Run Time:  Avg _____ , Hi _____ , Lo _____ , 3^rd _____ , 2^nd _____ , Last _____ second

• STEP 3: Adjust the Base Voltage for Speed Calculation in the GUI SYSTEM SETTINGS screen. Every 0.5 Volt increase should reduce the Run Time Speed by ~1.5 seconds (unless the Envoy is nearly stalling in the pin deck). Run the Envoy again at least 5 lanes after making this adjustment to see if the run time changed as expected. Always ignore the slower run time of the first lane, unless it stalls in the pin deck.

• STEP 4: Observe the travel of the Envoy as it enters the pin deck. It should gradually slow down ~10 feet before the end of the lane and continue to move smoothly without any hesitation or risk of stalling before it reaches the end of the lane and reverses direction. If the Envoy stalls, note the position of the rear cover in relation to the pin spots (Did the rear cover go past the head pin before stalling? 2” beyond 2-3 spots is normal rear reverse point). Report if any pins are wedged by the side covers in the flat gutters. Does this happen on the same lane? Clean drive wheels with IPA 99 to remove accumulated cleaner or conditioner which would cause slipping.

• STEP 5: Increase the End of Lane speed adjustment in the GUI SYSTEM SETTINGS screen up to the maximum setting of +15. This setting only affects the last 12” of travel at the very end of the pin deck. Don’t be afraid to increase this setting in increments of 5 since the brakes will be applied very aggressively to prevent the machine from coasting past the end of the pin deck with the correct full CCW setting of the KB speed control board DECEL trimpot.

If you have increased the Base Voltage for Speed Calculation near 27 volts in the GUI SYSTEM SETTINGS screen, and the End of Lane speed adjustment is +15 and you are still observing slow, inconsistent travel speed or stalling, then you may need a Voltmeter to continue troubleshooting to determine if the KB speed control Board needs to be adjusted or replaced, if the traction motor is pulling excess current, etc. Inconsistent run times are usually caused by a bad KB speed control board, while rapidly decreasing speeds may be caused by a bad traction motor. 

• STEP 6: Use a voltmeter to check the KB speed control board output to Traction Motor during the Diagnostics Drive Test mode. (See below procedure - “Envoy Traction Motor Voltage Measurement Procedure” showing how to attach the voltmeter and warm up a few lanes)

            Note: This check is just the first indicator that the KB speed control board output is correct. It can easily be run on the approach, but it doesn't assure proper function on the lane where the GUI System Settings,                         squeegee pressure adjustment, and other variables are involved.

< Difficult travel issues require more information from the following steps to resolve >

• STEP 7: Use the following “Adjustment of the FMAX trimpot on the KB speed control board” procedure if diagnostics voltage is significantly less than 14.2V (Remember that the Base Voltage for Speed Calculation and the End of Lane speed adjustment do not affect the KB speed control board output to Traction Motor during the Diagnostic Drive Test mode. The GUI System Settings only affect the KB speed control board output to Traction Motor while running an actual lane.) Skip to step 8 if this voltage is above 14.0V.

• STEP 8: Check Voltage while running a combination Clean & Condition mode on the lane (close covers and tape voltmeter to T-Handle as close to the handle end as possible so you can see the reading while the Envoy is under the pin deck in step 9). Observe the KB speed control board output voltage to Traction Motor while the Envoy is moving at a steady speed on the center 20-40 foot section of the lane. Compare to chart below during Forward Travel (squeegee Down) and Reverse Travel (squeegee Up). Record these voltages and the Run Times for 10 lanes.

• STEP 9: If the Envoy hesitates or stalls in the pin deck, check the KB speed control board output voltage to Traction Motor at the very end of the lane while the Envoy is traveling slowly before it reverses. This voltage should never be less than 5 volt on the pin deck. Be careful to get out of the way when the Envoy returns to the foul line. Trip the Cord Kill Switch or Emergency Stop button if you need to stop the travel of the Envoy.

•  STEP 10: Check the Traction motor current with a Clamp-on Ammeter and compare to the chart above to see if the traction motor may need to be replaced. The covers will need to be left open to view the Ammeter while it is clamped over one of the individual blue or brown wire near the “Drive Motor” connector on the left side of the enclosure. A current reading above 3 Amps during the Diagnostic drive test mode on the approach or above 10 Amps while running a combination Clean & Condition mode on the lane may indicate that the traction motor needs to be replaced.

Envoy Traction Motor Voltage Measurement Procedure

Tools needed:

• Multi-meter that will read DC volt and DC Amperage.
• Small pocket type flat blade screwdriver.
• Sealer or whiteout for sealing the trim pot.
• Phillips screw driver to remove the cover on the electrical enclosure.

Note: Measuring the KB speed control board output voltage to Traction Motor should be made when the Envoy is connected to the AC/DC Power Supply. This will assure a steady 26.5 VDC supply to avoid any variables from a discharged battery. If time doesn't allow for this, the next best option is to run with a fully charged Lithium battery. 

To switch to using the AC/DC Power Supply, first disconnect the AGM or Lithium Battery power cable and power type jumper (#1) from the electrical enclosure (#2). Then locate the AC/DC Power Supply red 24 VDC power cable connector (usually coiled just under the left side of the electrical enclosure). Connect the AC/DC Power Supply cable and AC/DC power type jumper to the electrical enclosure. (See Figure #1)

Figure #1

Then, run 6-8 lanes in a clean and condition mode to warm up the drive motor.

Next, locate the “Drive Motor” connector on the same side (left side looking from handle) of the enclosure as the AC power plug was installed. Leave the drive motor connector plugged into the enclosure. Take your voltmeter leads and put the red lead into the connector wire for the brown wire, and the black lead into the blue wire on the connector like the illustration below (Figure #2). Select on your volt meter “DC Voltage” for this test.

Figure #2 

Using the GUI, navigate to “Maintenance” > “Diagnostics” > “Drive”, then make sure the “Forward” is selected on the right hand button display. Now select and press “Drive” on the left hand button. This should start the drive motor and continue to run at a set medium speed for 20 seconds. The voltmeter should read DC voltage from 14.0 to 14.3 VDC. If it is below 14.0 VDC or you have had to adjust the Base Voltage for Speed Calculation near the maximum 27.0 setting, then the FMAX trimpot of the KB speed control board will need to be adjusted to measure 14.2 to 14.8 VDC while running on the approach in the Diagnostic Drive Test mode (see next process).  

Last Steps: Opening Enclosure to adjust or replace KB board 

Adjustment of the FMAX trimpot on the KB speed control board (inside the Electrical Enclosure)

• Remove the top cover of the electrical enclosure by removing the six screws on the top of the enclosure.  
• Check for any loose terminal connections or discolored wires inside the electrical enclosure.

• Locate the KB speed control board “FMAX” trim pot. This is the first trim pot from the top of the KB speed control board (see Figure #3). While the Envoy is running in the Diagnostic drive test mode, adjust this trim pot to 14.5 VDC to 14.8 VDC. Once this has been obtained, go back to your base speed adjustment and start at the default voltage of 24.0 volts and adjust voltage for speed from there.

Be sure to seal the trim pot with a sealer from an electronics shop or use “White-Out” correction liquid from an office supply store. Otherwise, the adjustment may change from normal everyday transportation.

Figure #3

Again, below are the parameters for each cleaning mode.

   62-72 Seconds Quick Clean

   70-80 Seconds Heavy Clean

   78-88 Seconds Max Clean

Note: Please make sure you run 6 to 8 lanes to warm up the Envoy drive motor and wet the absorbent wiper so that you can get a more accurate time measurement.

• Remove the KB speed control board and replace it with a new 14-100822-800 part that has been pre-set by Electronic Repair if the speed or end of lane performance is still inconsistent. 

In our early Envoy software, if you had turned on the temperature cycle on the operator’s screen or the temperature cycle was activated because of the temperature cycle scheduler and you navigated in the GUI to the Maintenance, then Diagnostics area, the temperature cycle override button would change from “On” to “Off”. However, the conditioning pump and temperature cycle would still be running even when it said it was off.

The bug is that it changed the On on the temperature cycle override button once you navigated to the diagnostics area to Off causing the pump to run continually. This could cause premature wear of the pump if not addressed. 

We now have newer software to fix this, but until your machine is updated you will need to:

1. Highlight the temperature cycle button and press the 'OK' button to turn it from Off to On.

2. Then, press the OK button one more additional time to turn it from On back to Off and this will get the temperature cycle button back in sync.

• To understand how this happens, let’s demonstrate how it happens.

1. Highlight the temperature cycle button and turn the temperature cycle to On.

2. Navigate to the Maintenance > Diagnostics area. The pump should turn off when entering into the diagnostics area.

3. Leave the diagnostics area and navigate back to the operator’s screen. The pump should turn back on, and then you will see the temperature cycle button it should say it is Off.

Making a backup file for the Envoy Lane Machine

1. Make sure the Graphic User Interface (GUI) is at the operator’s screen. (see Figure #1)

Figure #1   

2. Insert Thumb Drive (Flash Drive) into the USB port on the left hand side of the GUI. (see Figure #2)

Note: Make sure you use an empty Thumb Drive / Flash Drive with no folders or files on it. Leaving other lane machine “backup” folders on a thumb drive may cause inadvertent installation of another centers lane machines settings.

Figure #2

3. The “Import Data / Export Data” screen will appear. Default is “Export Data” Press the green “Okay” to proceed to the next screen. (see Figure #3)

Figure #3

4. Now you are at the "Export Data" screen, press the green “Okay” button one more time. (see Figure #4)

Figure #4

5. You will see this screen for a few seconds, the words will be missing but it is okay, then the “Import Data” / “Export Data” screen the words come back. At this time, you can remove the Flash drive / Thumb Drive from the GUI. This part is now done. You now have a folder on your thumb drive called "backup" this folder will have all your patterns and settings data. (see Figure #5)

Figure #5

Finding and sending the “backup” file in email.

Insert your “Thumb Drive / Flash Drive” into your personal computer. Open your drive and look for a folder called “backup”.

Double click on this “backup” folder to open it. You should see some files listed in this folder. Scroll down to the bottom of this folder and there will be a zipped folder called “backup.1.zip”. This is the folder that we will need sent to us for troubleshooting.

Send this “backup.1.zip” folder to techsupport@brunswickbowling.com and add in the subject line the reference number in the email we have been corresponding. Example is below.

Note: Always store the centers backup files in a folder designated for that center and date it, leaving “backup” folders on your thumb drive may lead to loading some other centers pattern and settings inadvertently being loaded into another centers lane machine. All Authority22 and Envoy lane machine back up folders are called “backup” so they need to be filed away and separated.

In order to properly diagnose this issue, we we will need to remove the accumulator diaphragm to verify the PSI.

When accumulator is completely low on PSI the Gauge needle will jump from approximately 25 PSI to up to 60 PSI. Triggering a High-pressure error.

Procedure to Remove and Verify Pressure

1. Disconnect wires connection from the Pressure sensor and temperature sensor from the accumulator rail.
   
2. Remove the two ½ inch nuts that holds the accumulator rail assembly.
   
3. Turn the Accumulator rail in a vertical position. Remove the hex cap to expose the stem valve.
   
4. Check the accumulator pressure using a tire pressure gauge. Should read 10 to 10.5 PSI.
   
5. If the pressure is below 10 PSI you will need to inflate the accumulator bladder using a bicycle air pump. If you exceed 10 PSI, simply push the stem valve very quick to deflate until you reach 10 to 10.5 PSI.
6. Once completed re install the accumulator rail and reconnect the pressure and temperature sensors.
   
   

08/25/2020 - Revised document to web format.
09/17/2018 - Released to KB

The Phoenix Lite LT4 lane machine can suddenly stop conditioning. This issue may occur if the tank was removed (for cleaning or changing wicks) and reinstalled incorrectly in the machine.

The tank must be mounted correctly on the support tube so that it rests properly against the transfer roller. An improperly mounted tank will ultimately result in the conditioner not being applied to the lane surface. It is possible to align the tank with its retaining bracket, yet still install the tank incorrectly. Refer to Figures 1 and 2.

It is easiest to check for proper mounting with the machine in the upright or storage position. In this position you can see the bottom of the oil tank and the support tube that it is resting on.